Alaska update 7/23/2013

Alaska update 7/23/2013

Russ here,

After seeing Faye off for home Toni and I took on provisions and fuel for our circumnavigation of Revillagigedo Island via the Behm Canal. The locals call the island Revilla, for obvious reasons, try to pronounce it!!?

We left Ketchikan cruising south to make a counter clockwise route around the island. After making the turn at the southern tip of Revilla Island we anchored in Alava Bay just a few miles northeast, on the west side of Behm Canal. We were the only boat anchored here and it was early so we dropped the dinghy, put on the little 3.5 hp Mercury, grabbed our light spin poles, and trolled around the bay. We caught four Pink Salmon and some bottom fish, it was great fun with the light tackle and we released all but one salmon that we used for crab bait. We haven't fished too much since my friend Danny left but when we do it doesn't take long to catch a meal. Toni likes to catch and release while we are at anchor, just fishing off the swim step most times. That evening a few whales entertained us as they swam around the bay, a nice end to a perfect day, the weather has been beautiful.

Pink Salmon (crab bait)

The next morning we woke up to bright red sun in a clear sky rising over the trees. We had coffee and a some breakfast, pulled the anchor, and headed north. We are entering Misty Fiords National Monument which encompasses 2.2 million acres designated as wilderness. The travel books say that if you can only go to one place in SE Alaska it should be here. We took a side trip into Smeaton Bay and enjoyed the dramatic scenery of the steep granite cliffs that were shrouded in fog and mist. Back in Behm Canal we cruised slowly (6-7 mph) to Shoalwater Pass on the east side. There is always something to look at as we go, we saw three killer whales, countless Bald eagles, and of course fishing boats and pleasure craft as they pass, we stopped once to watch a purse seiner haul in their catch of salmon. We both keep a pair of binoculars and camera close by.

Forest Service cabin

Shoalwater Pass has a forest service cabin and anchor buoy in a quiet protected little bay. The forest service cabins are available for rent for about $35 a night and usually have a wood or oil stove for heat and a bunks for 4 -8 people. They are unlocked and when not in use Toni and I usually go in to look and read the comments in the guest log, the cabins have all been neat and clean. We like to get off the boat when we can to stretch our legs and get some exercise so today we hiked to the other side of the island, less than ½ mile away but with no trail it was a challenge at times. When we got to the other side an eagle was having a fit because we had passed under it's nest and her baby was there. We took a break and got a few photos before crossing back to the other side. We see signs of bear everywhere we hike so we make an effort to make noise to ward them off, so far it's worked well. We visited with a fellow boater and shared cruising information in the evening before continuing our cribbage tournament, somehow she has taken a huge lead on me, I don't like it.

Hiking

Eagle baby

The next morning we cruised a short distance to New Eddystone Rock, its a volcanic plug that rises 230' high in the middle of the canal with deep water surrounding it. We moved on north to Rudyerd Bay on the east side of the canal and anchored in Punchbowl Cove. The bottom was sloped away steep from the shore so we dropped anchor and tied a stern tie to the shore to keep us from swinging. There is a 3,000 foot granite face on the east side of Punchbowl Cove that is probably the most photographed image in the National Monument. We hiked the steep mud and boardwalk trail that leads to beautiful Punchbowl Lake, about a half mile up there is an overlook and Punchbowl Creek waterfall with great views. We finally made it to the forest service cabin at the lake and ate the lunch we brought with us. There is a canoe and paddles at the cabin available to anyone that wants to continue the physical punishment of arriving to this point, yes, we are those people. We paddled out to a large island that has additional smaller lakes on it, hiked up to a high point to see an awesome view, and then continued around the shore back to the cabin. If you have never paddled a canoe for five miles with your spouse after an arduous hike before, please take my advice and stop at the end of the hike. It is obvious Toni and I need our own canoes. She wants to go one way and I another. On the way back we met some nice, smarter than us people, that had turned around half way up and we had a nice visit.

Eddystone Rock

Punchbowl Lake

The next morning, after we worked out our leg cramps from the previous day's hike, we continued on into Rudyerd Bay and anchored in the southern arm. It is also full of dramatic scenery and we took a dinghy tour of the bay in the afternoon with a few stops to walk an occasional small beach. Float planes were coming and going with passengers that would either get on or off an excursion boat that was touring the fiords.

The next morning we slowly cruised into the north arm of Rudyerd bay and were rewarded with the sighting of a mother Grizzly bear with three cubs, all three standing up to watch us, so cute. We motored out of Rudyerd and continued north in Behm Canal to Walker Cove. We anchored next to a river outlet at high tide so we quickly took the dinghy down and motored as far up the river as we could, about ½ mile. We saw lots spawning salmon and bear sign so we decided not to do much hiking, Toni has bear spray but I have no intention of being close enough to use it. We motored to the end of the bay and saw another mother Grizzly and two cubs, then after returning to the boat we saw another Grizzly with her cub at the mouth of the river we were in.

Bear poop on the trail

The next morning the same Grizzly and cub were on the beach digging clams, we watched them for close to an hour before pulling anchor. Then we motored to the back of the bay again and saw two more sets of Grizzlies with their cubs, the most we have seen on this trip. We cruised north out of Misty Fiords National Monument and north up to Fitsgibbon Cove where we anchored with three other boats. Toni had caught some flounder and we put those in the crab pot to sit over night. We took the dinghy to shore and walked the beach a bit before returning to continue our cribbage tournament. I am starting to shorten her lead in cribbage and she's not as cocky as she has been.

Bears digging clams

We have been gone for a week and we have seen lots of cool stuff but we are low on fresh water and some provisions, we have had no phone service or internet either so we decided to motor the last 48 miles back to Ketchikan and civilization. We will post this update when we get there.

Our plan now is to do our laundry, fuel, provision, and wait for good weather to travel south through Dixon Entrance and back to Prince Rupert , Canada to start our land trip to our home. Our boat has served us well, taken us to some truly magical places, and is in need of some tender loving care before being put away to wait for our next outing. We hope to have one more update at the conclusion of our travel. Until then, soft winds and following seas.

Russ (&Toni)